The snare drum's sharp attack provides the back-beat of any pop groove or rock rhythm. Maximizing this sound and ensuring it matches your desired genre and style will help your band or group's music feel clearer, crisper, and more professional.

The building blocks of a good snare sound are the quality of the materials and the time and effort put forth in tuning it appropriately. Using a poorly constructed or damaged snare, a bad or worn-out head, or paying little attention to tuning will all negatively impact the overall response and tonal quality of any drum. It is recommended that you always use the best materials available within your budget, from your preferred manufacturer, and that you practice and become experienced at tuning your equipment.

Different kinds of drum materials (aluminum, steel, brass, various woods, etc.) will change the basic sound range the drum will produce, so a basic understanding of the varieties is important for any new purchase. Consult your favorite manufacturer's Web site for more information on the range of products available.

There are actually three relatively simple steps involved in the tuning of a snare drum. While they can largely be done in any order, the most common and practical order is followed below. This involves tuning the resonant head, then the batter head, and finally the snare unit itself.

First, take it off. Take it all off. De-tune and remove the top head by unscrewing its lugs. Turn the drum over gently and detach the snare. Depending on the model, this may involve untying string (remember or write down how tight and the kind of knot so it can be copied later) or removing lugs or regular screws. Finally, remove the bottom head. You're ready to start over.

Tuning the Resonant Head

The bottom head - or resonant head - is the side that comes in contact with the snares that give the drum its name. It's typically thinner and more sensitive than the top head - or batter head - and should be medium or thin for use in rock and pop music.

Check the bearing edge (the edge of the shell where the head meets the side of the drum) for damage and dirt. Use a gentle cloth or paper towel to remove any dust, dirt, or sawdust from the edge. If the edge is significantly damaged, including splinters, visible warping, or cracks, you should consult an experienced drummer or technician for repair or replacement options.

Once the edge is ready, gently place the new head on the drum and replace the rim and lugs. Tighten each of the lugs down by hand until they make contact with the rim and start to affect the tension of the head. At this point, tighten each of the lugs a half-turn (180 degrees) with the drum key, always tightening opposite lugs consecutively.

Once you reach a tension where the head produces an undistorted tone when gently tapped with a stick, very carefully press down on the center of the head with the palm of your hand. The head is delicate, and will tear or break if mishandled, so don't pound or lean heavily on the center. Re-tune the head up to the lowest possible undistorted tone, and then an additional half-turn. By gently tapping the head near each lug with a drumstick, carefully tune all the lugs to each other, listening to the overtones produced at each point.

Congratulations, you have one-third of a snare.

Tuning the Batter Head

The batter head of the snare is the side struck by the stick. This side usually employs a white coated head that, when new, has a rough sandpaper feeling. On a rock or pop setup, a medium to heavy thickness head should be employed for increased durability and projection.

Follow the same directions for cleaning the bearing edge from the resonant head section. Keep in mind that the batter side bearing edge is less likely to be dirty, but more likely to be damaged.

In addition, you can follow the same directions for placing and tightening the rim. Significantly more pressure can be applied in the center of the drum, and once the batter head again produces an undistorted sound, tune the top head to approximately the same pitch as the bottom.

At this point, a lot of the finer details of snare tuning are left to personal preference. Professor Sound's Drum Tuning Bible provides several time-tested options you can try to find your preferred snare sound.

I prefer tuning the batter head about a major third (or four half-steps intervals) higher than the bottom head, but you should experiment to find the combination you want. This will all come together soon.

Tuning the Snare "Unit"

Replace the snare, doing your best to reattach it in the same way it was originally placed. Unless your drum has finger-screws on both sides, remember to leave some slack on the "tightening" side of the snare assembly, so that the snare will be centered at full tension. Flip the snare over and place it in a stand as usual. Loosen the snare assembly's finger-screw so that with the snare will not touch the resonant side when the strainer is switched to the "on" position.

Slowly tighten the finger-screw(s) until the snare barely touches the bottom head when struck at a normal volume. For a solid pop or rock sound, you're going to slowly tighten the snare (in the "on" position) until the snare stops producing a "slap" and sounds like an inherent, rich part of the overall drum note.

It's all set and ready to play!

Keeping it Up

Remember to regularly check the tuning on the batter head, especially if you consistently play rim shots. Less frequently, check the tuning of the bottom head, ensuring the snare sound remains the same. Your heads will last longer, and the quality of your sound will stay strong and consistent.

Keep on playing the music you love, and doing it well; good things will happen.

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